Tuesday, September 27, 2011

18 Days in Alaska




 ...........actually it ended up being 21 days, however we spent some time in Fairbanks getting antlers,capes and gear boxed up for the flight home. 


Rewind 21 days and we are landing in Fairbanks on Alaska Airlines. Our guide Don picks us up at the airport and we head south 80 miles to the little town of Delta Junction. Next day we head to the rifle range to check our rifles and make sure things didn't side ways during transit. Turns out that both rifles were still drivings tacks, so we loaded up and headed off to meet Jimmy our super cub pilot. Anyone who's hunted Alaska knows that super cubs are the main mode of transportation into the Alaska frontier.


We landed at base camp late afternoon on August 26th. After securing our base camp and loading our packs with 5 days of provisions, we headed for sheep country in the vast glacier mountains of the Alaska range.


      


Several miles of burning up boot leather, put us in this beautiful little valley where we made camp for the evening. It wasn't long before we laid eyes on our first band of sheep, which included a few nice rams. Since you can't hunt on the same day you fly, we just sat back and drank in the scenery and wildlife.




Day 2


Woke up to blue skies and white sheep. Looked over plenty of sheep, most of which were across a glacier that spanned 2 miles of rock slides, crevices, and snow fields. Ate breakfast and than broke camp and began the long treacherous hike across the glacier. Four hours later we reached land with vegetation. These glaciers are like moonscapes with almost no signs of life except for the constant cracking and tumbling of rock and ice. We had just finished making camp when it began to rain. We donned our rain gear and headed up the valley looking for a shooter ram. Most basins we looked in held sheep, however, most were sub legal rams. We continued up the bottom until we reached the last basin which collided with the head of the glacier. Our guide immediately spotted a band of good rams at 500 yards. We hunkered down and pulled out the glass for a closer look. The rams had us pinned, but didn't seem real spooked and eventually went back to feeding. Their were some nice rams in the bunch but with the rain,fog, and light fading fast, we decided to come back for a better look in the morning.







Day 3


While making breakfast, we noticed a nice ram on the moraine above camp. We decided we needed a closer look. When the ram fed out of view, we gathered our gear and were off. Once we crested a little hogs back, we could see the ram had joined up with another sheep. Closer inspection revealed two nice rams, but neither ram was quite full curl. We decided we better head back up the valley and see if we could get a better look at the rams from the previous night. Just before reaching the area we decided to pause and glass some sheep in a far off basin. While Travis and Don were glassing these sheep, I  glassed in the opposite direction. I almost immediately spotted what I thought was a white rock only 200 yards away. I was almost convinced it was another white rock when it suddenly materialized into a nice ram. I got Travis and Don's attention, and it wasn't long before Don indicated that it was a full curl ram.






It was awesome to have my first sheep on the ground. I have a new found respect for these animals. They live in some of the most rugged, and remote country in north America and are one of the most magnificent animals I have ever pursued. Not sure how to break it to Lisa, but I think I'm forever addicted to hunting sheep.


I also can't tell you how nice it was to have my good friend and taxidermist Travis Roundy on this trip. His experience with a knife is second to none. He can cape and break an animal down quicker than any guy I know. Thanks to him all the capes were well fleshed, salted and  cared for.




Day 4
Headed back up the valley to see if we could find another legal ram for Travis. Spotted several sheep and some nice rams but nothing Travis could put his tag on. We decided it was best to break camp, get my sheep packed back to base camp resupply and make preperations to head to a new area.
The pack out across the glacier with meat, cape, and a full curl ram was daunting, yet rewarding. Could have never done it without the help of Travis and Don. It was still a long grinding 10 mile hike back to base camp, but we arrived just before dusk and just as a storm front was moving in. With real food at base camp, we dined on sheep medallions, onions, and fried potatoes. Let me just say; dall sheep back strap is the best table fare of any wild game I have ever consumed. It was tender, with almost no gamey flavor. While sitting down to carve up sheep medallions, I cramped up from all the packing, and had to take an evening stroll to work out the cramps.


Day 5


We slept in and took it easy. Later that morning we sorted our gear and reloaded our packs in preparation for another long hike into another area for a chance at a sheep for Travis. We also broke our base camp down and built a bear fence around our gear and my sheep until Jimmy could pick it up with his super cub. We would not be returning to this camp, and would later end up at moose camp almost 30 foot miles from where I killed my ram.





After some much needed rest, we put on the packs and headed into a new area in search of a ram for Travis. We took it pretty easy that day as we made our way into some new sheep country. We stopped often to watch caribou moving out across the tundra, and to glass distant bands of sheep. We finally made camp at a place I named blueberry hill, for it's abundance of blueberries. We'd often stop and graze on blue berries like a bunch of hungry Grizzlies. The berries were so thick that after getting up off my knees from staking out my tent, I noticed my knees were stained blue. 
From this camp we were able to glass down into to moose country and than turn and glass up into sheep country. Didn't turn up many sheep, but we saw some bomber bulls.
Speaking of grizzly bears and blue berries, we stumbled on a few piles of grizzly bear scat. From the looks of the picture below, it appears this bear was really getting after the berries.

Day 6


Broke camp early and did some more glassing. Found some bands of sheep in the area we were heading too. With a full days hike ahead of us, we donned our packs and headed out. A couple  hours later we were at a new glacier. This glacier was not near as wide as the glacier we crossed to get my sheep, but it nonetheless was a glacier that had to be crossed to access the sheep. Later that afternoon, we made it across the glacier and headed up the bottom of the moraine checking each basin as we went. We were striking out at locating the sheep we had spotted earlier. After checking each basin and finding no sheep, we headed back down the moraine and than turned and headed west into a different drainage. We were all pretty exhausted and a little dejected, having not spotted any sheep, yet we continued to grind away checking every basin as we went. It was getting on for evening as we were rounding out into another basin when our guide suddenly spotted sheep down off in the bottom. They spotted us at the same time and made a run for the hillside. Once the sheep gained some elevation, they settled in and started feeding again. We immediately spotted a really good ram. Once we got the spotting scope on him, we noticed he had exceptional mass and length. Don finally gave Travis the green light, and he made a 515 yard shot on the ram of a lifetime. His sheep just missed the all time book by a couple inches. For you sheep nuts, this ram was just shy of 42 inches on each side and boasted 14.5 inch bases and was aged a 10. An absolute monster ram. 


It was dark by the time we made it to the glacier with Travis sheep, so we made camp for the night. We would need a good nights rest and a good meal for the long haul across the glacier and down to moose camp the next day.


Day 7


We got an early start as we had to finish breaking down Travis sheep for the trip across the glacier and than down to moose camp. It was a long day with many miles, but we arrived in moose camp just before dusk. We quickly got camp secured as another storm was moving in. Moose and grizzly season opens tomorrow.
 A storm front moving in as we leave sheep country.
 Unlike the arid deserts of southern Utah where I grew up, there is water everywhere in the mountains of Alaska. It seemed like you couldn't walk a 100 yards without stumbling into a spring creek or seep of some kind.
Here is a scenic view as we descend into the valley where we spent the remainder of our trip hunting moose and grizzly. Our guide nicknamed this area Disneyland. He said for moose hunters it's like being in Disneyland due to the shear number of BIG moose that converge on this little valley each fall.
 Another shot of Disneyland. Never did see Mickey mouse and friends, but we did see Bullwinkle the swamp donkey.




Day 8


Awoke to rain and fog. Rolled over and went back to sleep. Fog and rain lifted around late afternoon so we climbed up on our look out and it wasn't long before we had a shooter moose found. Our goal was a 60+ inch moose and this one looked to be close, however, we had one big obstacle in our way. A raging glacier fed river that was too swift to cross. All we could do now was wait and watch. 






Day 9


Jimmy flew in to pick up Trav's sheep and we put in an expedited order for a raft to be flown in. Turns out all the big bulls we were seeing were on the opposite side of the river. Jimmy said he do the best he could but was backed up with other hunters. Finished the day out with more drooling over Monster moose that we had no access to.


Day 10 & 11



Were back on the knob glassing up moose when we hear the low groan of Jimmy's super cub as it descends into our little valley. I spring to my feet, and start running for the landing strip  yelling le plane... le plane like the plump midget off of fantasy Island. Ok, maybe I didn't do that, but we were excited to see Jimmy because it meant one thing.The raft! Jimmy unloaded the raft and we wasted no time airing it up and taking it to the river.The idea was to shuttle the rope across the river and build a ferry system. Trav and Don headed across and when they hit the rapids, Travis snapped his paddle in half with the first stroke and they nearly took a roller coaster ride down river. Half an hour later, and after a little rodeo, we had a ferry system in place. With the ferry in place, we climbed back on our knob to see if we could glass up the monster bull we'd been seeing since opening day. It wasn't long before we spotted him, and the chase was on. We made a quick decent to the rivers edge quickly closing the distance to 639 yards. I shucked my pack, dialed my turret to 639 yards, laid my rifle across my pack and prepared for the shot. The bull had stopped with his vitals behind a spruce and I had plenty of time to calm my nerves before he stepped out into the open. I'll let the video and pictures tell the rest of the story


It's humbling to walk up on an animal of this size knowing full well you will pack out every scrap of meat, not to mention the cape and antlers. These prehistoric mammoths of the north, remind me of a draft horse with antlers. It took us a full two hours and some change to break this guy down and prepare him for the trip out. We took a load out that day and two more the following day. To put it into perspective, it's three trips for three guys. By the end of day 11 the meat pole was loaded down and swaying under the load. Whats even more humbling, is knowing that with the number of big moose we were seeing in this valley, it was a matter of time before Travis had one on the ground. With plenty of daylight left after getting my moose out we climbed up on our hill and was back to glassing. It wasn't long before we had another good bull spotted. We had spotted this bull before and estimated him to be about 67-68 inches wide. He was a shooter for sure but  he was on the other side of the river and two miles from base camp which is a little further than we wanted to pack a moose out. We decided to move up the valley and do some calling to see if we could coax him across the river. He had no interest in the call so we decided to back out and take another run at him in the morning.       


Day 12


Spent the better part of the morning glassing. Decided after lunch to take another run at the wide bull from the previous night. This time we decided to cross the river and be in a position for a shot if he showed himself. After the river crossing, and a 2 mile hike, we were in a good position to take the bull if he showed up. It wasn't long before we had a bull found, however, it turns out it was a 55 ish bull that was running with the bull I took. Except for a few cows, and the smaller bull, we were not turning up anything of interest. As it was getting on for evening, Travis suddenly  announced that he had a bear found. A beautiful Interior Grizzly! The bear was feeding one second and the next was running full bore down a wash. We decided, we better make a move fast and it was a good thing we did as we intercepted the bear as he was moving down a rocky ravine headed towards the river. A 100 yard shot, and a few for insurance, anchored the bear for good.



We took care of the bear in record time and was back to camp as the light was fading on another day in the wilds of Alaska.


Day 13 & 14


Were up and on our hill glassing at first light. It wasn't long before we spotted a big bull. We had spotted this bull a few days earlier. He was still in full velvet and a long ways from camp. We watched the bull until he fed out of view and than put together a game plan. We new the hunt was coming to a close and new this might be our only opportunity to get Travis a bull. We new it would be a grueling pack out, should Travis take the bull, however, in the end, we decided to man up and go after him. As we eased into the area where the bull disappeared, we spotted him bedded above a small pond. Travis readied for the shot as Don let out a few grunts to get the bull to stand. The bull wasted no time standing to identify his challenger. Travis abruptly put 5 shots through the broiler room before the bull crashed into a spruce tree. It was early enough in the day that we were able to break the bull down and  get 2 trips out. We concluded the morning of day 14 with the final pack out. The rest of the day was spent building meat poles, fleshing and salting capes and getting things ready for the trip out.
Day 15


Spent the day glassing for grizzlies, and drooling over some big bulls that had wandered into the valley over night. Spotted some trophy caribou bulls and talked and dreamed about the day when we'll return with a tag in hand. Jimmy will be showing up tomorrow to fly us out. Fifteen days in the bush with no shower. We can hardly stand the smell of ourselves. Funny thing is.... I  climbed in my sleeping bag tonight, pulled the bag over my head and immediately smelled an offensive odor. Turns out it was me. It's time for a real shower and some real food.


Day 16


No Jimmy and no flying out today. A call on the satellite phone revealed high winds for two days not to mention Jimmy was backed up on flights. Spent the day glassing and lazing around. It would be nice to have a caribou tag.


Day 17


Don wakes us out of a dead sleep. He awoke to the loan groan of a super cub and proclaimed it was Jimmy. We made record time sliding into our britches, only to discover when we cleared the tent that it was not Jimmy but another super cub passing over our camp. Spent the rest of the day lazing around camp and glassing for grizzlies. Haven't been sleeping good the past few nights so it's nice to take it easy. Took a few pictures with all our critters. All but my ram which was flown out on day 5.





Day 18


Woke up to rain drizzling on the tent. There is a slim chance we'll fly out today. It was exceptionally cold this morning so I rolled over and drifted off to sleep. Finally rolled out of bed around 9 am and joined Don at the camp fire. Were pretty much out of food except for sheep and moose meat. We've been eating sheep and moose twice a day for the past few days. Their is fog low on the hills around camp but it appears to be lifting. It's kind of a somber feeling wondering, when and if we are ever going to get flown out. Travis shared a story about some friends of his who were flown into a remote caribou camp. He said the day arrived when they were to be flown out, however, their was no plane. Ten days later their was still no plane. His friends recorded their last will and testament to family and friends on a small camcorder and prepared to accept their fate. They were eventually picked up, but I'm not sure their experience lifted my spirits any. As we stared into the fire, lost in our own thoughts, we suddenly heard the familiar groan of a super cub as it swooped down out of the fog and landed on our bumpy little air strip. It's not what we expected on a weather day like today. Turns out, the fog started to descend on Jimmy's way in to pick us up, forcing him to land two miles down the valley and wait out the fog.  I was the first to fly out, and it took me no time to have my stuff gathered and loaded into the cub. As we ascended out of our valley we had called home the past few weeks, I spotted 3 big bulls bedded above the river not far from camp. It was the perfect ending to a hunt of a lifetime. When I landed at Jimmy's airstrip, their was a young man waiting to be flown out,standing by the hanger with a box of assorted donuts. He offered me one as I stepped out of the cub. Never thought a jelly filled donut could taste so good.